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- Derfflinger 2 -


SMS Derfflinger 2 – Tyler (2017)



I picked up a Derfflinger 2 in complete disrepair at Nats 2016. It is a fairly old hull, the fiberglass was getting beat up and the plastic subdeck was cracked right through on the starboard side. Since I already had one, the plan was to copy the layout and get a second one done, perhaps to pass on to a new comer. The Derfflinger will always have a special place in my battling heart because it was the first capital ship I built, that will be the Derfflinger 1, this will be the Derfflinger 2.



Cracked subdeck was replaced. I debated trying to replace part of it vs the whole thing and also if I should put in wood as I typically do vs fiberglass. I decided to go to wood, mostly because of ease of working with it but also because I like a wood colored deck. And as I started working it became clear that the entire deck would have to be popped out.



The fiberglass was thin and very weak so it snapped out everywhere as I tried to remove the subdeck. At that point I figured it was better to scrap the fiberglass subdeck and just let the wood be the outside edge of the subdeck. As such I notched the wood subdeck to accept the very frail fiberglass ribs.



All of the ribs were backed with an additional 1/8 inch or so of fiberglass and several of them were backed with a solid piece of ¼ inch wide plastic, both for structural support and to attach the internal armor. For most ships I’d recommend 3 pieces of deck.



Super structure doesn’t need to change, still looks good. I did eventually have to cut it though as the deck cuts are in different locations than the original ship and the haymaker turret should in my opinion be fixed to the deck.



Water channeling is seen here. Much of the prior water channeling had to be cut out and re-done as it was built up way to high. It was a bit odd, the combination of previous owners had used a mixture of epoxy and wood on the bottom and concrete sealer over that. The Dremel solves all of that, some of the original epoxy did stay, you can see the clear epoxy along the outside edges of the new water channeling. The gaps left behind will be filled in with plastic.


You can also see the way I built the deck/sub deck. There are magnets used for the middle deck piece. You can also see the dove tail for the joint of the main sub deck and bow sub deck. The bow most and stern most deck pieces have slides.



Water channeling and pump mount. Motor mounts are in the far left of the picture. I have built most of my pump mounts like this for a while now, usually I will use a zip tie to hold the pump motor in place. The motor mounts are heavily modified traxxas villain gear boxes, I put the drive shaft all the way through the aluminum plate to hold it as steady as possible where the gears mesh, they are long in this picture and will not fit the motor on them until the excess brass 5/32 drive shaft is cut off. Also I cut the bottom part of the bolt slot and the bottom part of the hole for the motor out of the aluminum to allow for smaller than 12 tooth gears. The stock motor ‘villain’ motor mount doesn’t allow for that.



Glam shot with gun mounts sitting next to the wood hull Derfflinger 1. I am setting this up with the traditional stern gun, stern sidemount, bow sidemount. You can see here that I cut the superstructure in front of the haymaker to make it mesh better with the way my decks are going in. I haven’t found a better way to do it when there is a turret inside the superstructure/deck level like this. I want the gun mounted solidly to the deck so the super structure had to be cut and thus not easily removable in that stern most section. Generally I will screw or bolt the super structure to the deck.  



Running gear is in. I usually use a water proof servo to via push arm turn a larger gear (black gear in this picture) that is meshed with a smaller gear (green in this picture) that attaches to the rudder. This setup is transposable to dual rudder and singe rudder ships. You can also see the pourable white plastic in the bottom of the hull that was filled in for the gaps in the water channeling. The notches for the deck sliding system are definitely the way to go, they hold very firm and make for quick removal. The middle section will be held with rare earth magnets, I like this and have been doing it more lately, fairly easy to inset into the deck and subdeck but I don’t think it is worthwhile to do the whole boat with magnets when slides will do for the most of it. Also you can see the gray shower pan liner that was used for internal armor, it is very durable and attaches with screws to the plastic rib backers that for the most part run every other rib for the amidships portion of the hull.



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